Right after Orthros I get shuttled into the Patriarchate's mini-bus. It's a very ecclectic mix of people. Myself, the Grand Archimandrite Athenagoras, the Protopsalti and Lambadarios of the Great Church of Christ, Prof John Klentos and a couple of other psalti. We are going to the Church of Saint Menas for the Divine Liturgy. The Patriarch will also be there presiding from the throne. There are few days when he is actually celebrating the Divine Liturgy and they are determined by the Order of the Great Church. Since I really don't have any liturgical function I place my self in the south east corner of the Church right next to a big icon of, you guessed it, Saint George. The way the Church is laid out I see the throne very clearly and can observe a little of what goes on in the altar so I can compare the way they do things in Constantinople and the way we do things in the US.
Orthros starts and there are a few people milling around. There is a flurry of activity and the Patriarch comes in dressed in his Mandya (the long bishop's cloak), goes to the throne and begins the Katavasia. As he begins he sees me in the corner and acknowledges my presence as I give him the customary hand over the chest and bow slightly. It's a universal priestly greeting of respect without having to stop everything you are doing to acknowledge someone. There is no pretentiousness or arrogance in his demeanor. I think that the '60 Minutes' interview where he was asked what he preferred to be called and his answer "Bartholomew" says much about this man. He is truly humble. The true definition of humility is knowing who you are and not needing others to tell you who you are.
Slowly the Church fills with people, most may be visitors but there are people at this liturgy nonetheless. Unfortunately there are no young people but this is a weekday liturgy and even in our parishes in the US it is rare to find some young people in attendance.
The liturgy finishes and the Proistamenos of the parish takes the occasion to welcome. All of a sudden the Grand Archdeacon Maximos motions me to come to the throne. I get a little flustered since I'm being brought before the Patriarch. What he does simply astounds me. He introduces me as an Archimandrite from America who is here at the Patriarchate learning firsthand the inner workings of this venerable institution. He does this in a most pastoral way. He honors me by giving me the first piece of antidoron. I have not heard him raise his voice to anyone. He doesn't need to. He is surrounded by people who want to do their best for him.
We are then led to what can be termed the community center. I enter after he has and as he goes to the front the obligatory picture of Ataturk is askew and he takes his walking stiff to try to straighten it out. I will come to find out that Ataturk's picture is like George Washington's used to be. His All Holiness looks at me and asks if I wanted to say a few words. I am not prepared and he senses that and smiles and says in English "Next time." There was a sigh of relief on my face.
The rest of the day passes uneventfully. After Dinner at 8:00 PM whoever was at the Patriarchate gathered at the Patriarchal Chapel for Apodeipnon (Compline) at 8:30. The protocol here is that everyone other than the Priest celebrating, the junior clergy who is chanting and the Patriarch stand outside in the foyer. After the Compline Panayiotate asks me to come to his office. There he gives me a copy of information about Ganos and Hora that he had photocopied for me. I thank him and he reaches in his desk drawer and gives me a key chain with a small light on it, so I "can find my way in the dark". Its these little things that endears him to you.
I am still in awe of him but by the end of this tour I think I will be able to approach him without nervousness and a great deal of respect.
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