November 25- Feast Day of Saint Katherine (and for the next few days)

Once again I was called to celebrate Orthros for the feast of Saint Katherine. There was no liturgy at the Patriarchal Cathedral as the Patiarch was going to St Katherine's for their feast day. I opted to not go along for the service. I needed to vacate my room in one building for a room in the older building on Monday morning so I needed to get somethings packed and also had laundry to do.

Reminds me of being in the seminary when we had to do laundry had to wait in line for the washers and dryers in the basement of Polemankos Hall. Nowdays its washer/ dryer at home. Even so there is one washer and no dryer. The clothes are dried the old fashioned way on lines streched in the stairwell and folding wire racks at the end of the hall. Funny, how we now take even the simplest tasks for granted like drying clothes. We consider a dryer a neccessity not a luxury. Here a dryer is an unnecessary additional expense vis-a-vis electric bill . Forget gas dryers they will be non existent since there are no lines to service them. 

We in the US do consume way to much of nature's resources. Petroleum products are so cheap in the US in order to power our way to huge automobiles. We balk at $3.00 per gallon gas where here it is 3.09 Lira per liter. That works out to $ 11.67 per gallon! We need to become better stewards of what resources we do have (and import). We are all on this planet with others.

The days following St Katherine have been days in preparation for the feast day of St Andrew on November 30. This is the feast day of the Patriarchate as its apostolic founder is considered to be St Andrew, the first called. This is a big day for the Patriarchate as they welcome and official delegation from Rome (as we send an official delegation to Rome on their feast day in June). The Roman Catholic Archbishop of San Francisco who is travelling with Metropolitan Gerasimos on a Pilgrimage to Rome, Athens and Constantinople, will be seated with the official Vatican delegation.

In the meantime, Fr Nifon of the English Office has returned to the Patriarchate and is getting back to work after being away for about a month. He has to come back to the United States every so often as per his Turkish visa. My visa is good for multiple trips with in the next 120 days. Unfortunately if I come back sometime with Metropolitan Gerasimos who is going to be part of the next Synod beginning March 1, 2011, my visa will have to be renewed.

November 24- Taksim Square

In my mind there is a difference between Constantinople and Istanbul. The old part of the City which was fortified by the walls that held off invasions for hundreds of years until it fell in 1453 will always be Constantinople. Even during the Ottoman Empire the city was called Constantinople. The first couple of Sultans considered themselves successors to the Roman Emperors when they conquered the City but the rest of the world disagreed with them. The City was also known as "Stamboul", "Stambouli" and "Istanbul" from the Greek "Εις την Πόλιν"- "To the City." Modern Istanbul is in the area called Beyoğlu in the old Pera  (Greek for "far") district of Constantinople across the Golden Horn.


After services today I went with a couple of the people from the Patriarchate to a palced down one of the side streets for some Turkish food and ended at a Kebap place. I had my taste of some real Turkish food. It seemed a seedy street but sometimes the diamonds are defintiely in the rough. This was one of the cases. But more than anything else it was an opportunity to see some of the personnel of the Patriarchate in a more relaxed atmosphere- if you can call going out in suit and tie- relaxed.

It may be a good thing that I haven't really gone out of the Patriarchate that much because I would have gorged myself on some good food and really have put on the proverbial pounsd. There are no fitness centers in Istanbul. Some of the higher end hotels have them but evidently that West Coast phenomena has yet to hit here. Probably because they are not fighting an obesity epidemic- YET!

I say yet because once we hit the İstiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue), a long pedestrian shopping street, we got a view of the American Invasion: Burger King, Pizza Hut, McDonalds, Starbucks. I wonder if  the Turkish version of these products are full of the unhealthy carbohydrates and fats as the American Counterpart.

Taksim Square is the main center of Istanbul- hotels, restaurants, stores- You name it- It's here. The heart beat of the city is very palpable. It was exciting to be this area of town. This is definitly Modern Istanbul. This is also a clash of Turkish identity. Here is the modern Turkey- or maybe what Turkey wants to be- and on the other hand there are still women here with head scarves- the underlying Muslim religious undertone (albeit not as prevelant as in the old city). Modern Turkey was created out of the Ottoman Empire as an experiment as a secular Muslim nation. It remains to see what comes out of this experiment. Nowdays we have seen what is happening in the middle east as a result of religious dominated government which denies basic human dignity. What really remains to be seen is if Turkey can walk that secular/religious tightrope. It is a tightrope. We disparage other countries for having religion in the mix of governing but when you take a look at our government being influenced by a Western theological framework that is alien to the Orthodox mindset there is a danger to losing our own religious identity.



Sahlep


We hit a desert place where I was introduced to a hot drink called Sahlep. This would be wonderful on a cold winter's night. Its almost like drinkng liquid Rizogalo (Rice Pudding) althought I did have Sütlaç (rice Pudding along with a little ice cream along with the Sahlep. Talk about Sugar overload! But then this was a one time experience (?).

We headed back to the Patriarchate as we had to be back befoer 8:30 for the Service for Holy Communion - A service of prayers usually said before the celebration of a Liturgy. For this Liturgy the Patriarch would be not serving but presiding on the throne. I will be serving Orthros in the morning.

November 24- Old Things

I've always been interested in history. I am of the opinion that no one can be a cultured person without knowing their own history for one, and the history of their neighbors. In our global world, our neighbors can be any country or culture that is different from our own. Knowing history gives you an insight into politics, economics, trade, international relations and a wide range of other topics. Being here in Constantinople had been a living history lesson. As I am typing this I am sitting at a place that has been inhabited at least two thousand five hundred years and probably even before that. I cannot express how it feels to see the massive stone wall/ fortification that preserved this city until its fall in 1453. The wall is still there- crumbling in some spots and restored in others.

I wanted to go to Topkapi Saray- Topkapi Palace- the home of the Sultans until the 1850's when Dolmabahçe Palace was constructed. The real reason was to see the skull and right hand of John the Baptist which was appropriated when the Empire fell.

Panagioti- The Patriarchate's Tour Guide

My guide, Panagioti, asked if I would also like to see the Istanbul Archeology Museum. He was also a history buff, and not many people ask to tour this particular museum. Our driver from the Patriarchate was going to wait for us to go to the museum and then to the Palace which was literally next door. From the minute we stepped through the gate I knew that this was going to be a hard place to get out of. First of all, outside the main building where Christian sarcophagi and ancient Baptismal Fonts. The Baptismal Fonts were all marble and made for adult baptisms. After the fall of the city, the Moslems altered the crosses on most and made Muslim designs on them.

Entering the Museum we face to face with works from the Hittite and Babylonian Empires. The Museum is a repository of items of archeological significance unearthed in the Ottoman Empire during the heydey of archeological explorations in the 1800's. After one hour we told the driver that we would get a taxi back to the Patriarchate. This Museum was not to be rushed. One of the hallmarks of this museum is that it does not gloss over that there was an Empire prior to the Ottoman Empire, or that Greeks inhabited this area before the Turks. It is made plain in the archeological evidence and it is not covered up.

One item in particular that is just amazing and in awesome condition - the Alexander Sarcophagus. This was excavated from a necropolis near Sidon, Lebanon in the 1887. In one area of the museum there is an exhibit of the surrounding area around Constantinople that included my paternal ancestral land- Thraki- Bythania. Everything in the exhibit was Hellenic.

My guide Panagioti became a celebrity of sorts. Students from one of the area schools were doing a class and somehow someone asked him a question because they heard him explaining things to me and before you know it he was surrounded by a whole group of students who were stumped by one of the items they were supposed to study. He didn't know the exact answer and even called the Director of the Museum to help out (he knew him). I hope at least these kids see what their history is all about.

Generally speaking, we harp on the Turks because in order to build their homogeneous they conveniently forget about some aspects of their own history. All countries do the same with their history. This museum definitely is one that didn't hide that history.

After spending quite a bit of time in the Istanbul Archeology Museum it was time to go to the Palace.

This was the seat of the Ottoman Empire from the fall until the 1850's when the seat was moved to the new Dolmabahçe Saray. To get into the Palace area you have to go past the outer gate. In the picture you can see dark stains under the ramparts. These were made by the blood of persons who were beheaded for one reason or another- usually treason.

We have to enter through the Sublime Portewhere all the diplomats arrived to pay their respects to the Sultan or converse with the Grand Vizier. If you were not a Muslim you could not enter past this gate. The rest of the palace grounds are forbidden. You are taken on a tour of the various pavillions that line a central grassy area. It reminds you of a park. The items on display are fantastic as they are priceless. So many diamonds, pearls and other precious stones adorn common objects that were worn on festive occasions. The tile work on some of the spaces is amazing. If you are looking for other items of historical value this was not the place. It is a let down in some respects, you would think that there would be some sense of historical significance here but there is not. The Sultans may have lived in luxury for their time but the luxury that forced the move to another palace is not found here.

The only real redeeming value is paying my respects to part of the head and hand of St John the Baptist. The treasures in the Pavilion of the Prophets span both the Old Testament and a couple of items of Mohammed and Mohammed's Mother. The relics of John the Baptist are in good company as there is also the Staff of Moses, the hat of Joseph- the husband of the Virgin Mary. As I was saying my prayers- Panagioti was talking to me in Turkish presumably telling me what I was looking at. As I figured there was a guard right behind me and Panagioti was pretending to explain things to me. Of course, I had no idea what he was saying but he knew what I was doing and was creating a diversion.

On the grounds of the Palace is probably the only Church to survive the conquest and subsequent years without be turned into a Mosque. That is the Church of Agia Irini (the Church of the Peace of God). The mother of one of the post-conquest Sultans was a Christian by origin and for that reason did not convert the Church but instead was used as weapons storage. This Church was built roughly the same time as Agia Sophia.

We took a Taxi to the Patriarchate in time for me to go to Vespers, I was in my coat and ties and saw the Grand Chancellor beckon me to him so I went into the Church. I should have known something was up as the usually closed center doors were wide open which means only one thing. I went into the Church to the stasidia at the right side aisle. A couple minutes later I am almost side by side with his All- Holiness. He had decided to come to Vespers in Honor of the Great Martyr, Aikaterini as a chanter.

November 21- The Hierachical Sylleitourgia

The Entrance of the Theotokos into the Temple is one of the feasts of the Virgin Mary that we celebrate with appropriate solemnity. This is one of the few days that the Archbishop of Constantinople, New Rome and Ecumenical Patriarch, Bartholomew I, celebrates the Divine Liturgy with Metropolitans of the the area. Today we are going to the Church of the Entrance of the Theotokos, Stavrodromion across the Golden Horn at Galata.

I ride to the Church in the Patriarchate's mini bust along with a couple of the Chanters, the neokoroi of the Patriarchate, the Grand Archimandrite, a couple of the Deacons. We get to the Church and we are greeted by one of the Metropolitans that I do not realize he is a Metropolitan. The Orthodox Clergy in Constantinople (as, supposedly, all clergy) must wear a suit and tie. We are then indistinguishable from one another. Often you do not know who is clergy and who is layman. Most of the time, if they are shorter, white hair, wear coat and tie, they are probably Metropolitans.

When we in the US have a Metropolitan or Bishop come to our parishes, we have everything ready. We priests (supposedly) know to have the dikiri-trikiri (Bishop's candlesticks) with proper candles and ribbons in addition to the other things the parish should have. It's a travesty that some parishes- even after a Metropolitan/ Bishop visits them still don't learn from their mistakes and make sure that they have everything for the next time their Hierarch visits them. It was the case in New Jersey when I was there and I see it California as well.The Bishop should bring with him his vestments. Everything else should be there.

The Patriarchate leaves NOTHING to chance. We arrived at the Church of the Entrance of the Theotokos Staudromion and the neokoroi of the Patriarchate start taking out suitcases. They had brought everything for the Patriarchal Liturgy- all the Deacon's vestments and the Grand Archimandrite's vestments, Patriarchal Vestments, chalices, glasses for post communion, icons for the Patriarch's entrance prayers, censers, incense, you name it they had it.  It was a well oiled machine. They have done it so often that everyone knew what was supposed to happen and they made it happen. In the space of half- hour at the most everything was ready.  I could only hope for half of a well oiled machine such as this. Of course, you did not see the packing the night before. They take down was just as impressive- everything went back in its place and put in the right place in the suitcase. To be put away at the Patriarchate. These folks are always in the Cathedral for Orthros and Vespers tending to the candles and the incense- and a myriad of other chores that keeps the Patriarchal Cathedral humming.

There were about 7 or 8 Metropolitans serving with the Patriarch I took my place out of the action since I did not have any liturgical responsibilities but learn and pray. Even though I did not have any responsibilities it was still a blessing for me to be back in the altar to watch the precision of the Divine Liturgy without having to direct anyone as I normally do on Sundays. Would that I ever have a Sunday when everyone knows exactly what to do when then need to do it. Usually when I get in that mode on some Sundays just to test out whether my boys are paying attention to what needs to get done- they get the "deer in the headlights" look and scramble to do what they need to get done.
 

The Patriarch never raises his voice or scolds anyone during the course of the Liturgy- even when some one does something incorrectly. I am sure someone did something incorrectly, but you will never know because they carry on as if it was the way it was supposed to be. Speaking for myself, whenever I do a liturgical action incorrectly, people never know because to them it seemed that that was the way it should have been done. You keep on going. This was a special day- The main aisle of the church was packed and the side aisles also had people but not jam packed. The children from what I assume was one of the remaining Greek day schools in  the Taksim area. It was good to see young people there.

http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/n.php?n=one-sole-student-educated-in-a-greek-school-2010-11-15

A couple of things stood out in my mind. First, the Patriarch himself communed the people when the came to receive communion- no priest, no second chalice- His All-Holiness, himself. Most times in a hierarchical liturgy there is more than one chalice to distribute Holy Communion and if the hierarch gives the holy gifts he does so for a short time and then gives the chalice to another priest. No here. There was no delegation of this duty. This was Patriarch Bartholomew's responsibility and he took it seriously. Of course, there was no line for communion- just a big crowd that seemed like it would not end. 

The other thing that stood in my mind was that after the people received their antidoron (which the Patriarch distributed along with a small icon) the milled around in the back of the Church or in the side aisles greeting one another. Similar to what we do when we greet each other in the Narthex of the Church. We pride ourselves on "taksi" - order- but in reality I think this is one of the "puritanical" things that have crept into the Church in America. Our faith is relational and to say that we shouldn't greet each other in Church is being disingenuous to who we are as Christians caring for one another. The liturgy does not end with "Through the prayers of our holy fathers..." but the liturgy is continuous through every waking moment of the day.

The antidoron was cut not from one big loaf with a seal but many little loaves. I liked this. I think I will recommend it to my ladies when I get back to the states

A note about most of the Churches in Constantinople. I think I mentioned in an earlier post that the was some type of building program in the late 1700's and more in the middle of the 1800's. There was a prohibition of the churches having a dome. The Churches were built according to the basilica style in which the building is long rectangular building which was the common public building in the Roman era. The space inside the building is usually divided by colonnades (columns) that divide the space into a main central nave and side aisles and an apse on the end where the Holy Table and Sanctuary is located. In domed Churches the Icon of Christ Pantocrator is located in the dome. In the basilica Churches there is a medallion of the Pantocrator in the same position that the dome would have been (Hint for Richmond, VA).

November 20- Kapalıçarşı- The Grand Bazzar

Malls where we go to hang out with friends, where teenagers congregate in abundance, where we- of course- go shopping are a modern invention. So we would like to think.

Enter into the Kapalıçarşı -which is translated the "Covered Bazzar" but we like to change the names of things and have called it the "Grand Bazzar." This is the 'Mother of All Indoor Malls'! Imagine trying to navigate through 1,200 shops on 58 'streets.' I think you can buy just about anything. John Klentos and I were driven down by one of the Patriarchate drivers. I was overwhelmed with the sights and sounds of the place. I got a couple of things but really wasn't into haggling with too many shop owners. We stumbled into one area of the bazzar that was more of an antique area. I was royally ticked off because they had old icons and religious artifacts for sale. Who knows from what Churches or houses these icons and objects came from. They definitely were not factory made copies. 

Dr Klentos was on a shopping spree as he needed to get his presents before he left on Monday morning, just two days hence. I was just glad to get out of the Patriarchate for a bit. The phrase "çok pahalı" is one that every one needs to know before going to the bazzar which means "too expensive." Know what you are willing to pay for something before you go. Then low ball until you reach an agreement with the shop keeper. 

We barely scratched a portion of the area. Definitely did not hit all 58 streets but just a few of them. We needed to be back by 4:30 Vespers. He wanted to go by the spice market. I thought it was part of the Bazzar but a whole different area. We walked outside and I was getting hungry. All of a sudden as an answer to a prayer. There was the most delicious aroma coming from one shop. This is not your typical greasy festival gyro. This is pure meat on a very thin flat bread. No need for condiments it is tasty and juicy all by itself. With a glass of squeezed before-your-eyes fresh chilled orange juice it made for a perfect lunch.

We walked a little further down and finally hit the spice market. I have never seen anything like this- teas and spices that you have never seen- all before your eyes. You just wonder that this is the way people have been selling for ages. We stopped off at one store and ended up buying different types of teas. I haven't had coffee except for the cappuccino on Halki since I have been here. Its chai all the way. Every morning begins with two cups of fresh brewed chai. And its NOT Lipton. 


When I get back I am going to really drink tea. Its great anytime of day. Maybe the British know something we don't. I think the love affair with tea ended with the Boston Tea Party. Or, something like that.


Not to be outdone. There is even a PET Market. This is not your typical PetSmart store. No, this is just like the spice market but they have a variety of pet, pet foods, and pet snacks all for the asking- or buying. Leeches, they have those too. 


The good thing about traveling to different parts of the world is that you see how people live, work and play. We in the US have become victims of our own propaganda that says that we are the epitome of civilization. The "we're number one" mentality that discounts any other way of life, or any other culture. 

If I had the choice, I would not change the lifestyle to which I am accustomed in the US, but neither will I denigrate any other way of living. For them its just as a valid mode as mine. Some cultures may live simpler others more complex that what I am used to. But it still nice to experience that way of life- then come back to what I am used to.  The grass is not always greener on the other side. If it does look greener it might be because the sun may be blinding you.

November 20- Liturgy at the Patriarchal Cathedral

As in most endeavors there are sometimes slow days when nothing seems to be going on. Had a couple of days of that going on. Then on Friday morning I was asked if I would celebrate the Divine Liturgy on Saturday Morning. Who am I to say no? So I agreed. One thing about the Patriarchate, the vestments of the Priest and Deacon match. The only thing I was asked to bring to the Patriarchate was my sticharion (the first vestment that a priest puts on) since it is really tailored to size. The other parts of the Priest's vestments can be used by different priests of similar height. I brought a whole set of vestments. So far I have not used the set at all. Maybe by the time I leave I will.

Deacon Grigorios was to be my deacon for the service. I'm glad he was there to guide me in the small intricacies of serving in the Patriarchal Cathedral. Things are done the same all over the world but at the Patriarchate there are a some subtle differences. For instance, when the Patriarch's name is commemorated during the services, all bow toward the Bishop's throne whether he is present or not. There are more metanias (deep bows) that are normally done in the parish. Of course, no clergy wear a cross- even if their ecclesiastical rank entitles them to it. Why? The Patriarch is the Igumenos (Abbot) of the Great Monastery which is the Patriarchate. The Igumenos is the only one to wear a cross. This is evident in a Hierarchichal Concelebration where the Metropolitans only wear an engolpion and no cross. The Patriarch is the only one with a cross (and crown). 

The opportunity to serve at the Patriarchate is a deep honor for me. The only thing even more awesome would be if I actually served with the Patriarch. Don't really think that is going to happen because the Patriarch only celebrates at specific times and there is a protocol of who actually serves. But you never say never, or something like that. The feelings that I expressed earlier when I was relating serving Orthros and Vespers never really abate. There is a connection to a historical past which continues into the present and the future.

The experience at the Patriarchate from a priestly perspective is just as important as the pilgrimage to the Holy Land in 1995. These are unforgettable periods in my ever-continuing formation. Some opportunities are thrust upon you, others are there for the grabbing. I am definitely leaving Constantinople a changed person.

People may say "Why doesn't the Patriarchate leave Constantinople and go someplace where he has more freedom to be the Ecumenical Patriarchate?" I think this is a shortsighted statement. Just take a look at the Holy Land. The land that gave Jesus Christ His Birth, witness to His Ministry, Death and Resurrection is being abandoned by Christians left and right. The economic opportunities are not there any longer since most Christians are Palestinian and they suffer just as much discrimination from Muslim Palestinians from Israel and probably feel discrimination from their Muslim compatriots. Two to three generations have been waiting for the restoration of their homeland and haven't seen it yet.

This is the situation that the Patriarchate finds itself. Who will take care of our religious inheritance if not for the Patriarchate?  Who will speak for our history in the face of those who would alter it? And alter they (the Turks) do.

November 16-17 Bayram

On the way back to the Patriarchate from Chora Monastery we passed a pen with cows and sheep in it. Panagioti and the Driver were talking about killing the animals tomorrow (Tuesday). I laughed at the implication.

Later in the evening after vespers I was asked if I would do Orthros in the morning as it was a holiday and the Patriarchate is officially closed. Bayram.

Of course, I would do Orthros. This would be a high honor for me to celebrate a service at the Patriarchal Cathedral. Even though the normal attendees at the Orthros and Vespers are the staff of the Patriarchate it is an honor to stand where Patriarchs and Hierarchs have stood since 1601 when Patriarch Matthew II moved the Patriarchate here. The Patriarchal Church was refurbished in 1614, destroyed by fire in 1720, rebuilt in 1726, repaired in its present form in 1836 and restored by Patriarch Bartholomew.

The morning call to prayer at 5:30 AM was different this morning. Bayram.

At 8:00 AM I begin Orthros. It was a little difficult since I was not used to the Daily Orthros but only the Sunday Orthros. Usually during weekdays I start the Psalti going and let them continue without my interrupting since I have many things to do before the Liturgy. This time its different- I'm under the proverbial microscope. I hope this American Archimandrite doesn't make too many gaffes. I get through it with encouragement from the few staff present. I will get better as I serve more and more.

The History of the Orthodox Church is no longer abstract to me. Not after this trip to Constantinople I have stood at the same spot that St Patriarch Gregory V stood celebrating the Paschal Liturgy on April 10, 1821 before he would be dragged out in his vestments and hanged at the gate of the Patriarchate in retaliation for the uprising in the Peloponessos.

"Bayram" is the Turkish word for "Holiday" whether it was religious or civil. This Bayram is for the Muslim Feast of Sacrifice. A Commemoration of Abraham offering his son as a sacrifice as God had commanded him. At the last moment the angel of the Lord stayed his hand from committing to the final action of killing his son and a ram substituted for his son. For Jews and Christians the son is Isaac. For Muslims, the son that was the sacrifice was Ishmael, Abraham's son by Hagar the Egyptian, slave to Abraham's wife Sarah.

The Muslims traditionally sacrifice the animal in the street and gut the animal as well. Istanbul frowns on this particular act for public health reasons. For those families that sacrifice, the animal is divided up into  pieces. A piece of meat is given to a neighbor, a piece for the family (some say not), a piece is given the poor.

I was asked later to celebrate Vespers which, again, I was happy to do. And Orthros and Vespers the next day.

The Vespers would prove to be a real turning point for me. The word had come down that His- All Holiness would be at Vespers. There was also a crowd that evening- visitors from Kavala. The Grand Chancellor came into the altar and I was about to take off the Epitracheilion for him- not sure of protocol. He smiled and said it looked good on me. My signal that I'm the celebrant. I started vespers, no Patriarch. However, as I began to cense at the proper moment, the unmistakable deep voice of the Patriarch burst forth. I am serving vespers in his cathedral and he is chanting as one of the staff. I understand that he does this from time to time.
I could see that the visitors didn't quite know what to do with this. Maybe they couldn't believe that this is the Patriarch of Constantinople without all the attendant trappings of his office. Luckily I had not made any major goof-ups. I am starting to really get the hang of serving these daily offices.

The only change of protocol is that in the US as we finish the service if the Bishop is present  we move to the side during the dismissal so he can come to the altar. Not here. You stand where you normally stand because the Patriarch normally bows to the Altar and turns and walked out. This time it was different. As he walked out he greeted the pilgrims and gladly posed with them for a group photo. These people were excited to meet the Patriarch unexpectedly. Celebrity!

November 15- Panagia Pamakaristos and Chora Monastery

After the ferry trip went to lunch and mentioned to Fr Stephanos that I would really like to go see Chora so he arranged for Pangioti to take me around again. It is really nice having your own private tour guide. The first stop was to Panagia Pammakaristos which is relatively near the Patriarchate. It was the Patriarchal Cathedral from 1456 to 1587 and then appropriated and turned into Fetiye Mosque to celebrate the conquest of Georgia and Azerbaijan. Not only did the Ottomans build new mosques (that imitate Agia Sophia) they also appropriated Orthodox Churches for the same purpose.  This Church was originally two churches. The main Church was built in the 12th Century and a second chapel was built but the wife of the nephew of Emperor Michael VIII Paleologos as a funerary chapel in the late 13th Century and joined to the first Church.

Most of these churches and sites are in the middle of old neighborhoods. We need to remember that this is the Old City. I haven't really seen modern Istanbul yet. I have caught glimpses of it going from one place to another. The Patriarchate and the Holy Sites of Orthodoxy are in the middle of the ancient city. But in reality is there any "Modern Istanbul" in a place that has been the capital of two Empires- Roman (Rum) and Ottoman and has existed for 2000+ years can anything really be modern. I'm from a place (the US) that ancient is considered 1700's or 1800's and I am looking at places way older than that. I'm treading streets that have been here for centuries.

The Church of Panagia Pammakaristos has gone some very amazing mosaics that have been uncovered. The amazing part of these churches- at least for me- is how the liturgical actions that we have today seem to transcend time. Our Churches always had narthex, nave, holy of holies. This is true of Agia Sophia and it is true of all Churches I have visited and it is true in my own Church in Downey. I think I can define Chapel in a new way. A Chapel is distinct from a Church because it usually has no definable Narthex. It may have an area that functions as a Narthex (for lighting candles).

Under the Anastasi at Chora

We left Panagia Pammakaristos for one of the most awesome Churches because of its iconography and mosaics. The Monastery of Christ in Chora. The original Church in Chora dates from the 8th century and suffered greatly at the Latin Invation of 1204 when it was plundered. After the recapture of Constantinople by the Emperors, the Church became an place of pilgrimage by the Emperors as it was close to the Blachernae Palace. In 1315- 1321, an Imperial Diplomat by the name of Theodore Metochites renovated the Church. This Church contains the epitome of 14th century iconography and mosaics.

More pictures can be found at:

http://taxidiaris.blogspot.com/2010/05/chora-church-constantinople-istanbul.html

Jesus Christ- the Land (Chora) of the Living

After we left Chora we started the back roads to the Patriarchate one of the most interesting pictures I took out of the moving car was the following. Animals in the middle of the city. Cows and sheep primarily.


 I was about to be introduced to "Bayram."

November 12-15- The Theological School at Halki

I met my guide Prof Sotiri Varnalidis at the courtyard of the Patriarchate I had my bag. I need to get a collapsible Kalymafki. The one with the case is way to bulky to carry around. Prof V was going to make sure I didn't get lost on the way to Halki. First, we had to get on the ferry at Katabas for the ride out to Halki. We get to the road and hail a Taxi. Unlike New York where you stand in the street with your hand in the air, here you just stand on the street and wait for the taxi to stop. We got in and the Prof V told the cab driver where he wanted to go. There was a discussion between them and the taxi driver suggested that he go to the train station and take the train to Kabatas. It would be quicker (and presumably cheaper). We follow his advice. We go to get on the train and the Prof tells me to watch my wallet because of pickpockets. Mine is in the front of my pants and hopefully more secure. Its good that we took the train because cars were backed up and going nowhere fast.

Got off the train and on the way to get the tickets Prof V ran into some people he knew. They recommended a certain boat. But before we got on I had to get some Kolouri from the street vendors. They are a little harder than the ones in Thessaloniki but delicious nonetheless. Its a nice slow ride while sipping on chai.

Metropolitan Iakovos of the Princes Island is heading home as well on the same boat.

After about an hours ride we hit port on Halki. We get a nice carriage ride up to the Monastery/ Seminary. There are a few ways of getting around the Island but none of them involve a motor vehicle. They are very sparse on this island.

We go up the Hill of Hope. It is dark and you really can't see much but you do have a feeling that you are somewhere momentous. We are led into the building and taken to our rooms by Fr Doristheos. Mine is number 51. It is sparse with a bed, desk, armoire and a bookcase. This used to be a hiearchs room. Unfortuantely, you have to go outside your room to get cleaned up in the morning. They waited for us to have dinner and the Abbot of the Monastery and Current Dean of the Theological School is His Eminence Metropolitan Apostolos of Moschonision.

The morning came as all mornings with the sound of the muezzin. Not as loud as the Patriarchate but its there. Orthros and Liturgy were celebrated in the small chapel in the courtyard of the school. The Chapel is dated from 1844. It was awe invoking standing in the same chapel that has seen such noted church men as- Patriarch Bartholomew, Archbishop Iakovos, Metropolitan Anthony, and my dear friend Fr Efstathios Mylonas. This is where they learned their theology and were formed as clergymen. My generation has been nourished by Holy Cross in Brookline.

Side Note: Most of the churches and institutions that I visited thus far date from the late 1700's like the Patriarchal Cathedral or in the middle/ end of the 1800's. There must have been a change of fortune for the Orthodox Church because it seems as if there was an explosion of building programs by the Church. It could not have occurred without the Sultan's permission. This would be a very good study for someone. The churches all are in the basilica style and none have domes (that I have seen).

After Liturgy I walked around the grounds with Prof V and Fr Kallistos who was also visiting for a while. I got the full import of how large this building was. It housed the library, dormitory rooms, class rooms for the students, professors and hierarchs in residence. It was a microcosm of the Church. Everything is in a state of readiness for the day when the school is reopened.

I walked the halls and looked in the rooms and can imagine the hundreds of students that have graced these halls. There enrollment here was somewhere around 90 students. I was told that the lowest was about 80 and the highest about 115-120. That's about the same number as Holy Cross in Brookline. If anything, it was very quite and offered some time for reflection and prayer.

I celebrated Great Vespers and the next morning Orthros and the Divine Liturgy. The humbling moment was at the proskimidi when I commemorated the dead. So many Patriarchs, hierarchs, teachers and students who are commemorated at each Liturgy. I made it a point to commemorate my dear friend, Fr Stathys Mylonas. I know that he was looking down from heaven at the schole that nourished him. May their memories be eternal!

Being wintertime- not the peak tourist season- the only ones present were Prof V and Fr Doristheos. Yet, the chapel was filled by the saints and the angelic hosts and those who have gone before us. No Church is ever empty when the presence of the Holy Spirit fills it. It is often easy to be discouraged when we priests look at empty or sparsely attended Churches but we need to look at it from another, spiritual perspective. We are an eucharistic assembly whether it is one person in addition to the celebrant or 5,000 Its the same body of Christ. That one person needs to be nourished as well as the 5,000. The tendency is to validate our effectiveness as priests by the numbers of people in attendance at the Liturgy or the services of the Church but this is not who we are. We are servants of God. We are workers in the harvest. We are not the ones who save but Jesus Christ who saved and continues to save us.

Later in the afternoon I walked out of the Monastery compound down the road to the waterfront. It was an easy 10-15 minute walk. The waterfront is dotted by cafes and restaurants and sat down and had two cappuccinos and just watched the people. I may be in a different country but the people were the same as all over the world. People hurrying to the ferry to get back to the mainland, families meeting one another, kids playing with each other. On the way back I walked through another side street and was intrigued by another culinary masterpiece- fillo dough with pasta and soft (feta?) cheese. I got my piece and went and sat by the waterside and savored the flavors. Tomorrow begins the pre-Christmas fast. They do fast at the Patriarchate.
On the way up I passed a shop selling donair. Instead of pork that we are used to, it is made of chicken. I got one and started eating it on the way up the Hill of Hope.

It is a steep climb up. It is the only way up to the Theological School. I am treading the same road hundreds. if not thousands, have tread before.

Monday morning after breakfast, I was being escorted to the Patriarchate by a gentleman whose name was Iask (That is what his name was). We had the carriage waiting for us. I needed to got to the other side of the carriage my eye was draw to a small triangular penant. It said *ORDUSPOR*. I was intrigued by this and come to find out this was the soccer team from Ordu in Pontus. The carriage driver was Ordutis so was my travel companion Iask. I was told that most of the carriage drivers on Halki were from Ordu! They may be Muslim but still Patrioti!

We sat on the water's edge as we waited for a while and sipped "çaı". Soon the ferry came and we were off for the Poli once again. As we pulled away from Halki the magnificence of the "Hill of Hope" became evident. It commanded a pristine spot on Halki.  It is a reminder of the times when ethnic Greeks/ "Rum" lived among the Muslim Turks. Although second class citizens in many respects this was,  nevertheless, their home- their land. 

Whatever the politic situation may be at the moment I believe that positive change is always possible. We can point out that the Patriarch was allowed to celebrate the Divine Liturgy at Panagia Soumela in Pontus for the first time since 1923 when the Pontian Greeks had to leave their ancestral homeland. Granted it was a ethnic cleansing but the Greek state does not entirely have clean hands in this. Both Venizelos on the Greek side and Ataturk on the Turkish side, for their own reasons, bargained for this in the Treaty of Laussane. It was not until I read the book Twice a Stranger: How Mass Expulsion Forged Modern Greece and Turkey by Bruce Clark that I got an appreciation of the political implications of the population exchange and the attempt to forge homogeneous nations. It continued to get the world into trouble since then. 

Agia Sophia on the Right. Blue Mosque is on the left.

It is only one hour to Kabatas. We passed the coast by Chalcedon where the 4th Ecumencical Council was held in the 5th century. As we approached Constantinople, the absolute commanding presence of Agia Sophia was very much apparent. From quite a distance one can make out the Emperor Justinian's crowning monument. You can probably imagine Constantinople, the Queen City, as it was in its heyday (without the minarets)- Sparkling in the sunlight towering above all the buildings of the old city as it does to this day. Modern Istanbul is spread out more than the old Constantinople. The new part of the city is across the Golden Horn in the Beyoğlu – Galata district.

We got off the Ferry and headed to a car that was sent by the Patriarchate. On the way I decided to pay homage to my new soccer team- Orduspor- by getting a soccer scarf.

November 12- Vespers of St John Chrysostom

Saint John Chrysostom was the 37th occupant of the throne of Constantople from 398-404. He was eloquent in his words and prophetic in his speech. The speech got him in trouble with the Empress Eudoxia a couple of times. He was exiled and brought back due to popular uprising. He was exiled a second time and on the way to his place of exile. His last words were "Glory to God for all things!"

Saint Gregory of Nazianzus the Theologian was the 35th occupant of the throne from 379-381. In the midst of the Arian controversy he was relegated to a smaller Church since most of the Church's in the City were occupied by Arians. He defended the Orthodox position with his orations- for which the Church gave him the appellation "Theologian." His trials and travails for the Orthodox cause against Arianism exhausted him and he willingly retired from the throne at th Council of 381 and returned back to Nazianzus.

The relics of these two great Saints were taken to the west by the Crusaders in the 1200's. In 2004, Pope John Paul II returned portions of the relics to His All-Holiness in ceremonies at the Vatican. At the Patriachal Church they were symbolically enthroned on the Patriarchal Throne. They are kept at the side of the Patriarchal Cathedral.

Saint John Chrysostom is commemorated on November 13. As the ecclesitical day begins at Sundown with Vespers I was privileged to attend the Great Vespers commemorating this holy father of the Church. His All-Holiness presided from the side throne and not the main throne. In front of the main throne were placed the relics of St John Chrysostom and a bishops staff was tied to the throne. The Great Vespers lasted for a little less than an hour. Wish that our Vespers could not go over that length of time. Our Psaltes in the Los Angeles area can learn a thing or two from this.


I did not stay much longer. I had to catch the ferry to Heybeyliada known to Greeks as Halki- one of the Princes Islands.

November 11- Saint Menas

Right after Orthros I get shuttled into the Patriarchate's mini-bus. It's a very ecclectic mix of people. Myself, the Grand Archimandrite Athenagoras, the Protopsalti and Lambadarios of the Great Church of Christ, Prof John Klentos and a couple of other psalti. We are going to the Church of Saint Menas for the Divine Liturgy. The Patriarch will also be there presiding from the throne. There are few days when he is actually celebrating the Divine Liturgy and they are determined by the Order of the Great Church. Since I really don't have any liturgical function I place my self in the south east corner of the Church right next to a big icon of, you guessed it, Saint George. The way the Church is laid out I see the throne very clearly and can observe a little of what goes on in the altar so I can compare the way they do things in Constantinople and the way we do things in the US.

Orthros starts and there are a few people milling around. There is a flurry of activity and the Patriarch comes in dressed in his Mandya (the long bishop's cloak), goes to the throne and begins the Katavasia. As he begins he sees me in the corner and acknowledges my presence as I give him the customary hand over the chest and bow slightly. It's a universal priestly greeting of respect without having to stop everything you are doing to acknowledge someone. There is no pretentiousness or arrogance in his demeanor. I think that the '60 Minutes' interview where he was asked what he preferred to be called and his answer "Bartholomew" says much about this man. He is truly humble. The true definition of humility is knowing who you are and not needing others to tell you who you are.

Slowly the Church fills with people, most may be visitors but there are people at this liturgy nonetheless. Unfortunately there are no young people but this is a weekday liturgy and even in our parishes in the US it is rare to find some young people in attendance.

The liturgy finishes and the Proistamenos of the parish takes the occasion to welcome. All of a sudden the Grand Archdeacon Maximos motions me to come to the throne. I get a little flustered since I'm being brought before the Patriarch. What he does simply astounds me. He introduces me as an Archimandrite from America who is here at the Patriarchate learning firsthand the inner workings of this venerable institution.  He does this in a most pastoral way. He honors me by giving me the first piece of antidoron. I have not heard him raise his voice to anyone. He doesn't need to. He is surrounded by people who want to do their best for him.

We are then led to what can be termed the community center. I enter after he has and as he goes to the front the obligatory picture of Ataturk is askew and he takes his walking stiff to try to straighten it out. I will come to find out that Ataturk's picture is like George Washington's used to be. His All Holiness looks at me and asks if I wanted to say a few words. I am not prepared and he senses that and smiles and says in English "Next time." There was a sigh of relief on my face.

The rest of the day passes uneventfully. After Dinner at 8:00 PM whoever was at the Patriarchate gathered at the Patriarchal Chapel for Apodeipnon (Compline) at 8:30. The protocol here is that everyone other than the Priest celebrating, the junior clergy who is chanting and the Patriarch stand outside in the foyer. After the Compline Panayiotate asks me to come to his office. There he gives me a copy of information about Ganos and Hora that he had photocopied for me. I thank him and he reaches in his desk drawer and gives me a key chain with a small light on it, so I "can find my way in the dark".  Its these little things that endears him to you.

I am still in awe of him but by the end of this tour I think I will be able to approach him without nervousness and a great deal of respect.

November 10- Going to Work and Vespers

We got back to the Patriarchate just in time for lunch. The lunch room is in the main building where members of the Patriarchate have lunch. It is a more relaxed atmosphere. You take your seat and you are served by the kitchen staff. After you have finished you take your leave and go about your business. You do not have to be there at a certain time- althought lunch is served between 1 and 1:30 or so. I was assigned to help out Fr Paisios in the English Office. The Patriarchate answers all its mail in one of three primary languages- Greek, Turkish and English.

The Patriarch reads all his mail. I would have assumed that someone lower on the totem pole would read his mail and determine if it was worthy to go to the Patriarch. Not by a long shot. Someone may open his mail, but he sees every bit of correspondence that is addressed to him and reads all the responses.  I am helping Fr Paisios get caught up on the letters that need to go out.

Fr Paisios in the English Office

 Fr Paisios is the Patriarchal deacon in that he responsible to the Patriarch for his direction. The phone is constantly ringing and he is constantly back and forth to his office. He does get flustered at times. But Fr Paisios takes everything in stride. I joke with him that I am going to take him back to Los Angeles with me. Like 95% of the staff of the Patriarchte he is young.

Patriarchal English is a lot different from Parish English and that is one of the hardest things to master. In Greek it sounds so normal, but trying to say the same things in English is a little on the trying side. Some grammatical rules fly out the window especially concerning adverbs, and different types of clauses. But then again that was the stuff of "Byzantine Diplomacy."  Diplomacy is simply telling someone to go someplace (^&^%&**) and actually have him look forward to going on that trip.

November 10- The Great Church of Christ- Η Του Χριστού Μεγάλη Εκκλησία

With the exception of the major routes all the streets in Istanbul are very narrow. American cars do not do well here. I don’t think I have even seen an American car. They are too wide to navigate these streets. Even in its heyday there was no need for wide streets. The only mode of transportation would have been your feet, a horse or maybe donkey. Of course there is the Great American Import- McDonald’s and Burger King. I don’t think you will find the Double Bacon Cheeseburger or an Egg McMuffin. This is a Muslim country and they do not eat pork.

The first stop is the Basilica Cistern. From the 5th century this was Constantinople’s water supply. The city needed a dependable water supply. Being on the coast and one of the largest- if not the largest- city of the world, they could not supply all their needs through drilling wells. The Emperor Valens constructed an aqueduct that brought water into the city from far away mountains. The water was used by the inhabitants of the city and then what was not used was diverted into the cistern to be used in times of seige or other difficulties.

Its an amazing feat of engineering. All of the columns supporting a roof which in turn supports the ground above which today has the city of Istanbul above it. We walk through it but in bygone days we would be underwater.

Next stop Agia Sophia or the Great Church of Christ. We walk across the street from the Basilica Cistern and pay our entrance fee. I am in awe and anticipation. The history of the Orthodox Church and the Empire is focused on this one church. Agia Sophia- the Holy Wisdom of God- has stood on this spot since the time of St Constantine the Great. This present Church was built by Justinian in 532. This church has been here for 1,478 years. It has withstood the ravages of time, nature (earthquakes) and man (conquests by Latins and Ottomans).

Before you enter the Church there is a small area to the left where examples of marble works that has been recovered and restored are exhibited. One is the amvon of St John Chrysostom. The amvon- or pulpit, originally was in middle of the Church and raised high above the people so they could hear the homily. I was moved by the thought that the most eloquent of all the preachers of the Gospel spoke from this platform.

Slowly I approach the huge Narthex doors. I am about to walk into history. We had studied the order of services and how the imperial met the ecclesiastical in this space. I walk through the Royal Doors through which no one but the Emperor passed. I see with my own eyes the reason why Justinian declared, “Solomon, I have outdone You!” or the emissaries from Rus when the declared “We did not know whether we were in heaven or on earth. For God surely dwells there!”

There is no way that anyone could feel claustrophobic here. The spaciousness of the Church allows the soul to soar heavenward. It cannot be contained here. As soon as you step into the Church you are confronted with the order that was part of the ritual of Agia Sophia. In the floor there are inlaid “position markers” where certain people stood at various part of the ceremonial. For instance, as soon as you walk in the Royal Doors there are two inlaid circles in the floor. One circle was where the Emperor stood, the other where the Patriarch stood as he welcomed the Emperor into the Church for prescribed Feasts and events.  Inlaid in the Nave of the Church are three marble lines delinating certain areas of the floor. One area was where the imperial officers of state stood during the liturgy, another area was reserved for the Senate and leading families, the third for everyone else. Only men were allowed on the floor level of Agia Sophia. Even the Empress was not allowed on the floor but had her own throne in the women’s balcony.

I looked at the floor and thought of the marble floor at Saint George in Downey. There was a little debate that the marble tiles should have been chosen a little more carefully to make a more uniform appearance rather than the luck of the draw as to which marble piece was picked up. You look at the marble floor and columns of Agia Sophia and the one thing that gets you is a lack of uniformity. The builders Constantinople, as all builders throughtout the ancient and not so ancient world, recycled and reused the materials that were available to them. And this includes marble slabs, and columns. The captials of the columns of Agia Sophia, wherever you can see them are not uniform, they were brought from other places and used. Same thing with the floor. The remains of pagan temples that were destroyed found themselves in the building of Agia Sophia. As we were going out of the Church, Panagioti mentioned that the massive doors were the actual door from the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus. I would not be surprised if the rest of that temple was here in Agia Sophia. And why not? If you are going to embark on a massive building program as did St Constantine and subsequent Emperors, you will need to use that which you have available to you from wherever you can get it. The obelisks in the Hippodrome (or what is left of it) were brought from Egypt. The Basilica Cisterns which we visited right before Agia Sophia is another prime example of using material from other sources including pagan temples. The bases of two of the columns where placed on two enormous heads of the Medusa. Symbolically, paganism was being drowned in the new city.

A couple of other tidbits. Panagioti showed us to a place where there was a ladder used to clean Agia Sophia. Behind it was a sealed, closed door. The door was built by Justinian as an escape route should the crowds get antsy and riot as they did during the Nika riots earlier in his reign. It was the same rioters that burnt down (accidentally or on purpose) the previous Agia Sophia. It was put down brutally and still smarting from the experience had this escape route behind the Imperial Throne in the Church. It led into a tunnel away from the Church to the Palace. It is sealed up now. There is a tradition/ legend that when the Last Emperor, Constantine XI Paleologos left the Church to take up his post to defend the city, he left by this door. He was never seen again after the body. After the victory of the Ottoman Turks a headless body was discovered that wore the imperial foot coverings and this why we say that the Emperor died in battle. One tradition has it that he didn't die and is hidden behind this door waiting to come out again when Agia Sophia is once again an Orthodox Church. Of course there is another popular tradition that holds that at the moment the Turks entered Agia Sophia, the priest who was celebrating the Liturgy took the Chalice and ran out of the Church through this door and will come out to finish the Liturgy when it becomes a Church once again.

The Ottoman Turks had a policy that when a city capitulated they would be spared the rampage of the troops. If a city was conquered by force of arms, the Sultan's army would have three days to do whatever they wanted to do to the city and its inhabitants. This seems barbaric to us but this was an acceptable practice by virtually all armies of the day. Even in most recent history, the bringing home of war souveniers and trophies was acceptable, and this is a remnant of what armies have done for time immemorial. The bodies of the inhabitants of the city littered the floor of the Great Church that the Sultan commanded that they all be moved in order for him to enter the Church. His soldiers piled the bodies on the right side of the Church and when he entered the Church on horseback to claim the city, he rode to the top of the pile of bodies to plant his flag, but his horse began to slip. The Sultan reached out to the nearest column to keep from falling and in doing so left his handprint on the column.

The Islamic call to prayer sounded and the Great Church of Christ, the Holy Wisdom, became Ayasofya Tzami.

Try as they might to obliterate the Christian aspect of this Church, they could not succeed. They puled the arms of the crosses on the heavy bronze doors, but you can see the cross. A plaque over the Royal/ Imperial doors was never obliteated. The mosaics were, thankfully, not purposely destroyed but covered over with plaster. This one act perhaps saved these priceless icons from being lost forever. The faces of two of the Cherubim have been unveiled. Technology may advance a little more in a few years that we can get a glimpse of what beautiful icons and mosaics remain to be uncovered.
 

In the Great Church of Christ, the Holy Widsom




There is no need to ask if I prayed at Agia Sophia. The glory and worship of God continues in this place even as a museum. This site has been consecrated to the glory of God and it will remain so until the end of time. The prayers must remain, for the time being, silent and inconspicuous.

November 10- The Agiasmata at Vlacherna and Zoodochos Pigi

No one can come to the city of Constantinople and not be awed by the massive stone walls. Most of the wall is in disrepair since it does not have to protect the city from invaders as it once did. There is some restoration work on some of the wall so you can see how massive they were. Expanded by Emperors whose primary concern was the safety of the city, they are now- perhaps as then- supports for dwellings, areas for growing vegetables and crops and areas to walk in.

They stopped many armies from capturing the city until that fateful day in May 1453 when an unguarded door allowed the Ottomans to exploit that weakness, capture the city and make it theirs.

Before then the city was threatened by the Avars and it was at the Church of Panagia Vlacherna that the Akathist Hymn was sung and the Kontakion of “Ti Ypermacho” becomes ingrained in our collective Orthodox consciousness. In the face of an invading army the Patriarch begins the service and marches on the walls of Constantinople with the icon of the Panagia. The invaders are beaten back by the intercessions of the Virgin Mary.

At the gate the sign reads “Ayazma Meryem Ama.”- “Agiasma of the Mother Mary.” According to Islam Jesus is a prophet and Virgin Mary, the prophet’s mother. Many a Muslim woman have prayed for the intercessions of the Virgin Mary. “From henceforth all generations will call me blessed.”  It is ironic that in our own country, evangelical protestants barely acknowledge her while another faith all together gives her some type of honor. Granted it is not the same type of veneration that Orthodox and Catholics give her, but it is honor nevertheless.

Panagioti, the tour guide, has informed us that the Emperors would enter the waters in order to be protected in battle. Pangia Vlacherna was a part of the Vlacherana Palace complex that began around 500 AD. The agiasma would have been part of that imperial complex. As such it makes sense that the Patriarch would begin the Akathist Hymn in the Imperial Church.

The present Church is unassuming. The glory of the old Imperial Panagia Vlacherna has faded into history. The ravages of earthquake and the terror of September 1955 have taken its toll. The present church is from about the late 1950's.  The Church is being renovated in the inside.

I found this blog on the web and has pictures as well
http://taxidiaris.blogspot.com/2010/05/church-of-vlacherna-istanbul-turkey.html

Any renovations done on the churches of Constantinople are paid for by the Patriarchate. There is no government help. With a community of about 3,000 the churches themselves cannot pay for their own renovation. There is simply not the financial wealth of the early 20th century Greeks of Constantinople. 

There was something unusual about this church and all churches. The windows either had bars on them or metal window closures on the INSIDE and the doors were metal with heavy duty closures. For all intents and purposes these churches become not only spiritual places of refuge but physical places of refuge in case of times of civil unrest such as  September 1955. They are virtual fortresses until civil authorities have enough and restore order. With metal window closures they fend off rocks and other items of destruction from being thrown inside. 

The second stop was at Baloukli and the Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi.
The story and history of the monastery is at this blog: 
http://taxidiaris.blogspot.com/2010/05/zoodochos-pigi-at-baloukli-istanbul.html
http://full-of-grace-and-truth.blogspot.com/2009/04/bright-friday-life-giving-spring-of.html

The graves of Patriarchs Athenagoras and Dimitrios as well as other Patriarchs and hierarchs of the Church are located there. I chanted “Αιωνία η Μνήμη”.

History Note: The city was known as Constantinople until the foundation of the modern Turkish state in 1923.

November 10- Preparing for the Tour

I get dressed in my black suit and tie. This is the dress of the Constantinopolitan clergy outside the Patriarchate and within Church compounds. The clerical collar that people in the west identify with clergy does not exist here. Plus the fact is that wearing Orthodox clothing subjects priests and deacons to derision. There are different rules here.

Turkey is supposedly a secular society but that is becoming blurred as Islam makes its presence known more and more. Of course, the sounds of the muezzin waft over the city at various times of muslim prayer then I see more women with scarves on their heads and then there are some women who wear the full body veil although there faces remain uncovered. It seems to me that there is more accommodation here than some other muslim  countries.

The Turkish flag flies half mast at the Patriarchate and all over Turkey for the Ataturk holiday. My gut instinct is one of revulsion to see the Turkish (Islamic?) flag over the Ecumenical Patriarchate. After all it has the Muslim elements of the crescent moon and star. What is a flag? Is it not an identification of your country and a symbol of Patriotism and love for your country? And the Turkish flag flies everywhere. This is new to me and I am sure that I will see it everywhere for a while. Think about the US flag and where it flies. Buildings, churches, synagogues, government buildings, homes, hospitals, emblazoned on uniforms of all types, bumper stickers on cars. Why cannot the Turks (or any country and nationality) be proud of who they are just as we are?

The United States has a subtle exception to the notion of one nation- one flag. We are a nation of immigrants. We are a nation where someone of our family came to this country be it through colonization of the English, Spanish, Dutch and French, in the 1500's and 1600's or through the influx of immigrants through our nation’s history. We brought over heritage, customs and traditions and let them co-exist. We also have our secondary flags to show our cultural identification. Where else can you see the Mexican, Greek, Cuban, Italian, Spanish, Russian, Israeli, etc,  flags flying side by side with the American flag? Only in America!  We are not a melting pot. We are not coalescing into one unique American culture. We are a wonderful stew!

If the Patriarchate had to hoist another flag, whose would it be? This is the Ecumenical Patriarchate it may be located in Turkey but her children are all over the world. It has been here through the Roman (Byzantine) Empire, Ottoman Empire, and Turkish State. This is her home as it has been since the 4th century. The Church has known plenty and poverty throughout her existence. We can only look at the Russian Church that suffered through communism and now is once again a force in Russia, perhaps even more so that in Tsarist times.

In these modern times with technology and globalization, the Patriarchate may be functioning better, communication better and is more visible since the end of the Ottoman era, but Turkish law still inhibits full exercise of religious freedom and rights. Is that changing slowly? Who would have imagined a Patriarchal liturgy at Panagia Soumela in Pontus some 88 years after the Pontian Greeks left in the exchange of populations? Seeds are laid all the time, the fruit is gathered only in the fullness of time.

Side Note: Grand Archimandrite Athenagoras made an observation that the mosques in Greece- and there are some- hoist the Greek flag and not the flag of another nation. The Greek flag has a cross on it, doesn’t it? They may be a religious minority but they are Greeks nonetheless.

I come down from my room and Panagioti the tour guide is ready. We are going in the mini- van. The gentleman that was in the Cathedral during Orthros is coming as well. So many miles away from California and who is here at the Patriarchate but- Dr John Klentos of the Patriarch Athenagoras Orthodox Institute in Berkely, California on a sabbatical studying the liturgy at the Patriarchate.


I have taken many pictures with my camera. However, I don’t have a way to download them to my computer or upload them on shutterfly/ facebook. 

November 10- You’re not in California anymore

 So I set my alarm clock for 6:45 AM. I shouldn't have bothered.

At around 5:30 or so in the morning I hear faint chanting. Or what I thought was chanting. It went on for a full 15 minutes all over the city and across the Halic- the Golden Horn. It wasn’t 15 minutes from one minaret but collectively. Each muezzin had his own time schedule on which shout out his call to prayer. There is a call to prayer in the middle of the night. Thankfully they let everyone sleep peacefully through the night This is the reality since 1453 in this city (and in the outlying area earlier than that.)


What was I saying about an alarm clock? Clearly not needed.

Orthros is at 8:00 AM at the Patriarchal Cathedral of Saint George. Seems Saint George figures very prominently in my priestly life- Saint George as my first parish; Saint George as my present parish; Saint George as the Patriarchal Cathedral. But I digress.


I headed down to the Patriarchal cathedral. Not as ancient as you would believe. This particular church dates from the 1700's but rebuilt in the 1800's.  I’ve seen it many times on ERT when they showed the Patriarchal liturgies on TV. It was different seeing it for the first time in real life. I slowly went down the side aisles and venerated the relics of Saints they had there. Suddenly I was in front of the relics of Saint John Chrysostom and Saint Gregory the Theologian who were Patriarchs of Constantinople and whose relics were plundered by the Fourth Crusade in 1204 and were restored to the Patriarchate by Pope John Paul II. I remembered seeing it live on ERT when it happened several years ago and now I am in front of the relics of these two Fathers of the Church. In America we may have beautiful and grand churches but we are poor in the sense that we have no connection to our Orthodox heritage. Where are the relics of holy men and women that the Church has declared Saints? Where are our centers of pilgrimage to be rejuvenated?  We do have the relics of Saint Nektarios in Covina and Saint Herman of Alaska in Long Beach.  Those are the exceptions rather than the rule.

Beginning in 1204 with the Fourth Crusade which plundered the treasures of Orthodoxy including the relics of Saints and shipped them to the West, then the fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Turks in 1453 devastated whatever little remained of the glory that was once a vibrant empire. We should be grateful that relics of two universal luminaries find their way back to the Orthodox Church. Relics of holy men and women are vital to the continuity of our life as a Church. But more important is the faithful witness that they proclaim to us of a life of goodness and humility. We need them to bolster our faith at times. Their lesson is "we have fought the good fight" you will do as well.

Going back to Orthros. I was expecting at least 45minutes to an hour length. Seminary had a 30 minute Orthros. The Orthros here was no more than 20 minutes. They chanted fast!During Orthros I see a gentleman taking video with a small handheld camera and taking notes. He looks familiar but I don't know anyone here. I shrug it off.

After Orthros I was invited to one of the sitting rooms where I began meeting the staff of the Patriarchate. All these names are overwhelming at first but I will get them all by the time I leave. There is the Grand Chancellor Stephanos, the Archdeacon Maximos, and the Grand Archimandrite Athenagoras. All of them were warm and welcoming. I tell them about myself and about St George in Downey. When I mention that the parish serves about 200-250 families they seem somewhat surprised, especially when they ask if I have an assistant.

It’s a nice small breakfast of olives, bread and Tea. This is a nation of tea drinkers. Forget coffee for the next few weeks. There is coffee if you so desire but by and large there will always be hot water for tea.

About 9:05 and 9:10 there is the unmistakable sound of car and truck horns. This is the moment when all of Turkey stops. At this moment in 1938 Kemala Mustafa Pasa, also known as Ataturk, died. All traffic stops and people get out of their cars and trucks, people stop walking and everyone stands at attention. Whatever you may think of Ataturk, the fact is that he bears a great deal of responsibility of what Turkey is today and he is fresh in the minds of some people. Look at America and our holiday, President’s Day, Memorial Day, Veteran’s Day. President’s Day is the merger of two holidays in February that used to be separate in which we honored two pivotal presidents in US History- George Washington (Feb 22) and Abraham Lincoln (Feb 12). Before anyone castigates the Turks for honoring “the father of the country,” let us remember we do (or did) the same. (Now days, its time off from work and shopping!)

Grand Chancellor Stephanos is surprised that this is my first visit to Constantinople and the Patriarchate. This will not do. He calls Pangioti who is the Tour guide for the Patriarchate. I am to go sightseeing. Then after I get back, I go to work in the English Office of the Patriarchate.

I go upstairs and get ready.

November 9- Later that evening

There is a cycle of services at the Patriarchate. Remember this is technically a monastery. The Patriarch is the Igoumeonos. Vespers is at 4:30 PM. After lunch, I was told to relax. Dinner is at 8:00 in the Diakonikon. Technically it is the Deacon's lunch room but everyone who is not invited to the Patriachal table eats here. I went to my room lay down on my bed.... AND Conked out. Can anyone say jet lag? I woke up just in time for dinner. Dinner is basically leftovers from lunch. What I had for lunch is what was there for dinner. In other words, the Patriarch does not eat anything too different from what everyone else eats.

At 8:30 there is Apodeipnon or Compline in the Patriarch's chapel if he is in. Tonight he was not in.

I didn't want to be late for Orthros in the morning seeing that I want to set a fine example for the Archimandrites from America. Set my alarm for about 6:45 AM. I was up during the night several times because it was a little warm in my room, a different mattress and size bed from what I am used to and body is telling me one thing while the mind is telling me another.

November 9- Meeting His All Holiness the Patriarch

PROTOCOL- When going to the Office of the Patriarch you ALWAYS wear the Rasso and Kalymavki. No one wears the Veil at the Patriarchate. Outside everywhere else except the office, going from one place to the other you wear Kalymavki. In Church, Rasso and Kalymavki.

Please have a seat. Your Name? From where? It won't be long.
I have a gift. Should I get it now?
Sure you have time.

I'm sweating now. A few minutes later- The door opens.

I'm ushered into the office of His All  Holiness Bartholomew, Archbishop of Constantinople, New Rome and Ecumenical Patriarch. The 270th Successor of Saint Andrew the Apostle. The First Among Equals.

He comes around his desk. I bow down kiss his hand. He hugs me. "Welcome," he says. He directs me to a seat next to his desk not in front, but at the side so we can look at each other. At the same time he shows me the American flag- a gift from Nancy Pelosi, Speaker of the House of Representatives.  He explains why I am there. For the Archimandrites in America to see and experience the Patriarchate first hand, to not be strangers to the Patriarchate, and to be the children of the Patriarchate, especially if some of us are to be made hierarchs. We get to know each other... or rather he gets to know me. Where I am from. I tell him that this is my first visit to the city and Patriarchate, that I am returning to my ancestral homeland.
I convey messages from Presbytera Mylonas and a hint of sadness comes over his face at the mention of his dear friend, Fr Efstathios.

I give him a small gift. Its a pair of glass dolphins that change color as the viewing angle changes. I explain this is a gift in honor of his environmental advocacy since I see it first hand as a scuba diver. He looks at me. Isn't it dangerous. No Panagiotate- Its beautiful under there. he proclaims my gift beautiful and places it on a table next to his desk.

I no longer feel bad for my office desk in Downey. We have something in common there.

Its a short welcome but I am invited to Lunch.

Lunch is a simple affair. There are two other Metropolitans there, Chrysostomos of Philadelphia and Iakovos of Prinkipinisson, Fr Elpidoforos, myself, and two others.  Soup, small salad, Tiropta.
Small chit chat.

How do you describe him? Approachable, low key, engaging, loving and caring.
I am fortunate to having met him. This is not to be the last encounter.

November 9- Arrival at the Patriarchate

It was a long flight. Almost 19 hours from LAX to Istanbul with a layover at JFK. Never could get sleep in planes so it was a case of dozing of a little at a time. I did get to use my iPod touch. Basilcally I was reading an e-book all the way here. Never did look at the movies I downloaded on to my iPod Touch. The book engrossed me.

So I landed at Istanbul and and got my 90 day visa which allows multiple entries.. All for 20 USD. I went to get my bags. All except one. The rolling duffel was missing. So I went to the office at the airport. The woman helping me starts speaking Turkish, I make a quizzical. sorrowful face-  I do NOT know turkish except for Hello, and Thank you and please.  Went out to look just one more time and it was there. I thanked her for her help. and went out of the building. So good when I see a man holding a sign that says "Fr John Constantine". He's one of the drivers from the Patriarchate. Good thing I don't have to find a taxi.

Going through Istanbul to the Patriarchate you drive right beside the old city walls of Theodosios. Massive and ancient. They protected the city for centuries. The one gate that is restored is the one that is supposedly the one that was left unguarded which allowed the Muslims to enter the city on May 29, 1453.

Because the US is not old compared to Europe we really have no sense of the history that is under our feet. In Europe you are standing on hundreds of years- even centuries- of history. When one town succumbs to the ravages of time and conquest the next one is built on the ashes of the original and people go on with their lives. I'm not sure that people who live in Europe have that sense as well.

Just seeing the walls of Constantinople with my own eyes gave me a sense of reality to what I had read in the seminary about the city and the church's history. All over there were mosques style of St Sophia with their round domes and minarets piercing the sky. "I'm not in Kansas any more!"

Traffic was just like anywhere else in Greece--- no traffic courtesy. Yes there were lights and people stopped for red lights... nothing else. Went through a neighborhood which looked run down... and then I saw a shop with Greek signs. One turn and then another and were on a very narrow street.

We stopped. There was the gate- the gate that has been shout since Patriarch Gregory V was hanged on Pascha, April 10, 1821 in his vestments because the Greeks in Greece revolted. I was at the Patriarchate of Constantinople- my home for the next month.  Yes, I had read about the gate- here it was in front of me. It is real.

They get me to my room. One single bed, desk, armoire, wing chair, and bathroom. Not quite Holiday Inn- but I am a guest of the Patriarchate and I am grateful for what I have. This is a monastery after all. And as I repeatedly told priests at the Consecration of the Zoodoxhos Pigi Monastery in Dunlap, CA- Their monastery- their rules. and I shall eat what they eat. I unpack my gear and put everything in its place.

Now what? I have no idea where I will be going, what I will be doing.  I start going up a flight of stairs. There are people there like a guard. Hmmm.. could it be.... yes, it was the Patriarch's office wing with the Grand Chancellors Office next to it. But the Grand Chancellor is not in.  I ask for Fr. Elpidoforos whose name is the only one I have. Oh yes. Go down this flight of starts make a right and go down the balcony, first door on your right.  Ohh--- KAY----  I remember this balcony. This is what the Patriarch and Pope Benedict had their victory wave.

Fr. Elpidoforos welcomed me very warmly, informed me that the Grand Chancellor was not in today, annd would I like to see the Patriarch today? Is that a real question or a rhetorical question?

The proper answer is- I am at His All Holiness' pleasure.

November 8- H Minus 3

Three more hours and I'm on my way to Constantinople. Can't believe that I have two bags to take. One is just my Kalymafki (Hat), One set of vestments, 2 Anteria, 1 Rasa, One Suit. Weight with Bag. 39 pounds. The other bag has gone one more suit, shirts, toiletries and other necessties. Since I already have one bag, I'm taking my resistance bands just so I can have some exercise while there.

Soon the adventure begins